Everything You Need TO Know About Getting the Slow Boat in Laos: Huay Xai – Luang Prabang 2023

Introduction

Welcome to your ultimate guide to the slow boat along the Mekong river in Laos! Explore the raw beauty of Laos by embarking on this unforgettable journey from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang!

People often miss out on Laos because they visit its famous neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam. But Laos has its own special charm that’s waiting to be explored by adventurous travellers like yourself! The best way to do this? A two-day boat trip down the Mekong River from the small town of Huay Xai, to the cultural and historical hub of Luang Prabang.

Laos offers travellers a unique blend of untouched natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. By taking the slow boat in Laos from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, you can experience the rhythm of life along the Mekong River while enjoying the beautiful scenery and making friends with fellow travellers.

Are you ready to learn more? Let’s get into it!

How to Get to Huay Xai

If you are planning on taking the slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, it’s likely that you’re either arriving from Thailand or coming from one of the northern towns in Laos. From other towns in Laos, it is easy to find bus transport to Huay Xai. There are plenty of hotels and hostels there to choose from before you embark on your slow boat journey. 

Where To Stay in Huay Xai

When we visited Huay Xai, we stayed in a budget hotel called Oudomphone Guesthouse 2. It was fine and had everything we needed for a comfortable stay (air conditioning is a MUST for us in Southeast Asia!).

Slow Boat Tickets

I recommend booking your slow boat tickets at your hotel because they can organise a tuk-tuk to pick you up from there and take you to the slow boat dock. 

Ticket Price: 430,000 Kip (£17.54) per person (including tuk tuk pick-up)

Slow Boat Day 1: Huay Xai – Pak Beng 

Travel Time: 6 Hours

In the morning you’ll be picked up from your hotel and taken to the slow boat port. When we arrived, there were loads of boats lined up so I double-checked with the locals that we were getting on the right one! Climb aboard the slow boat – a long, sturdy wooden vessel designed to navigate the gentle ebbs and flows of the Mekong River.

We took the slow boat at the beginning of the rainy season in Laos, so we were expecting a little bit of rain! On the first day, a light drizzle set a picturesque scene over the Mekong. Despite the rain, we hardly got wet as the boat was in motion.

Tip: Although it was overcast for pretty much the entire journey, I still managed to get sunburnt because I was sitting closer to the window of the boat, so definitely make sure to wear suncream!

I basically spent the whole of Day 1 staring out of the window and taking pictures with my big camera. I just wanted to soak it all in and really be present in the moment to enjoy the stunning scenery. 

Overnight in Pak Beng

We stayed in Pak Beng Guesthouse and it was in the perfect location, just a couple of hundred metres away from the slow boat dock. I believe it cost £6 for 1 night for a double room with a private bathroom and air conditioning. It was also great because it’s located close to restaurants and you can buy sandwiches and pastries here in the morning before you set off on Day 2!

Slow Boat Day 2: Pak Beng – Luang Prabang

Travel Time: 8 Hours

The journey on Day 2 started just as peacefully as the first day. I decided to pick up my Kindle and I ended up reading the entirety of ‘The Alchemist’ by Paulo Coelho and I think it was the perfect book choice for this journey. If you haven’t already read it, I encourage you to do so!

I spent the latter part of the day gazing out over the Mekong and checking the map to see how close we were to Luang Prabang. 

The journey on Day 2 was longer than the first day and we were on the boat for 8 hours that day!

When you finally disembark in Luang Prabang, you will be dropped off a 15-minute drive away from the town centre. There are tuk-tuks waiting at the top of the stairs to take you to the centre and they cost 25,000 Kip (£1.00) per person (if you are in a group of 4). If you’re travelling solo, I recommend joining a group of others so the journey is cheaper for you!

The Flow of Life Along the Mekong

Though it’s called a ‘slow’ boat, the journey never felt sluggish. Thanks to the downstream route and the surprising little rapids in some sections, the boat moved at a comfortable pace. What made this journey particularly mesmerizing was witnessing life along the Mekong. With every turn, we encountered small villages, children splashing in the water, and fishermen casting their nets, it was wonderful to see!

Stops Along the Way

The journey also includes multiple stops at various points along the river. Some stops are brief, just long enough to pick up new passengers, while others allow local vendors to board and sell their wares. Some stops are longer, for example, we had a local who managed to bring his moped onto the boat. I think we were all holding our breath as he carefully rolled it down these steps!

Journey Experience: Luck of the Draw?

I had read so many reviews of people’s slow boat experiences before embarking on the journey myself. We quickly realised that your experience will be totally dependent on the conditions that you experience on your trip. It could be raining the entire time or it could be bright sunshine, it might be a party atmosphere or more subdued and peaceful. It really just depends! We felt fortunate that our trip was a mixture of rainy and dry and was very peaceful for the most part! There were a few Australians who got a bit boisterous after a few too many drinks on the first day, but it never overshadowed the tranquility of the journey.

Meeting Other Travellers

The slow boat journey isn’t just about the picturesque landscapes; it’s also about the people you meet along the way. This trip provides an excellent opportunity to connect with fellow travellers from around the globe and share travel stories and experiences.

My partner, Brett, and I had the good fortune of meeting a lovely Dutch couple, Kelly and Rutger, during our journey. What started as a casual conversation aboard the boat grew into a meaningful friendship. We ended up meeting them multiple times in both Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, going on day trips together, sharing meals, laughter, and travel experiences. The friendships we made with Kelly and Rutger really enriched our time in Laos and left us with memories that we cherish even more than the thousands of pictures we took.

Top Tips for the Slow Boat

  1. Book tickets in advance: Secure your tickets ahead of time, preferably 2 days before you plan to travel, to avoid last minute hassles. I recommend that you buy your tickets from your hotel or a reliable local travel agency in Huay Xai.
  2. Protect against the weather: Even if it’s cloudy, apply suncream to prevent getting burnt! Also, pack a light raincoat if you’re travelling during rainy season.
  3. Stay hydrated and carry snacks: While there are some drinks and snacks sold on the boat, ensure that you bring plenty of food and water with you for the journey.
  4. Secure accommodation in Pak Beng: Book your overnight stay in Pak Beng in advance to ensure you have somewhere to sleep. You can find places to stay on arrival, but it saves time and hassle if you already know where you’re staying.
  5. Be prepared for long days: The journey, especially on day two, can be quite long. Bring a good book, download some offline content on your devices, or simply enjoy the scenery to pass the time. Note: there is little to no internet or mobile service during the journey.
  6. Choose your seat wisely: If you want to enjoy the view but avoid getting sunburnt, choose a seat away from the window. Also, arrive early to choose a seat near the front of the boat to be further away from the engine noise.
  7. Luggage storage: You will likely place your belongings at the back of the boat, behind the seats. It’s unlikely that you will be able to access it during the journey, so make sure you have everything you need with you.

Conclusion

Taking a slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang offers an immersive experience into the heart of Laos. While the boat’s environment can be influenced by the crowd, the journey allows you to meet new people, share stories, and experience the undulating rhythms of life on the Mekong. 

From forests wet with rain and faces red with the sun, to the surprise rapids and unplanned stops, every part of the trip adds to your memories. No matter the time of year or how fast you go, the slow boat journey in Laos can be a deeply moving experience. It’s a trip that you shouldn’t skip! So pack your sandwiches, board the boat, and set sail for an unforgettable journey through the heart of Laos!

If you enjoyed this blog post, be sure to check out my other blogs about Laos here! If you have any questions about the slow boat in Laos, feel free to contact me via email: tianitravels@gmail.com or via social media, I will be happy to help!

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